Metals

Metal Options

Our Jewelry is only manufactured to the highest quality standards and utilizes the finest custom alloys of metals based on top European standards (Which are much more strict than US standards) All of our Noble Metals are nickel free and have a minimal noble metal content of at least 58.5%.
All of our jewelry is available in the following metals:

1) Our Custom Alloy Surgical Implant Grade Stainless:

While not a “Noble” metal we custom make very high end bridal and fashion jewelry (including setting very high-end diamonds & gemstones) in this alloy. E.g. $10,000+ engagement rings. (this is not the inferior alloy almost exclusively seen in jewelry throughout the internet and jewelry stores) an amazing alternative as it is virtually indistinguishable from our palladium to the untrained eye.

Pros: Very “Bright” metal. Very durable, tough, and extremely hard wearing an excellent metal for those who are hard on their jewelry. Very cost effective due to the solid construction of our jewelry and today’s very high noble metal costs and an excellent option for those on a tighter budget.

Cons: This metal when used for rings CANNOT be sized down. A ring in this metal that must be sized down would need to be remanufactured (This metal can be “Reamed Out” to increase the finger size). This metal IS NOT FOR PEOPLE WITH ACCUTE METAL ALLERGIES. Even though this is the alloy that is specifically used for medical implants and is body safe as it is internally inserted into the body anyone with acute metal allergies or hyper sensitivity to nickel should avoid this alloy.

Stone Setting Restrictions: Diamonds (all Colors) Ruby, Sapphire (all Colors) are the only stones hearty enough to be set in this alloy

2) Our Palladium Alloy 925 Sterling Silver (92.5% Purity)

It was a standard practice for us not to produce our pieces in sterling silver. Our position was based on the fact that over 95% of all silver jewelry today is mass produced at substandard levels. As you may or may not be aware most silver jewelry has a “blackening” process performed on the recessed areas within the pieces. This process is done to hide the imperfections of the metal inherent to sterling silver such as porosity (pitting) that is so prevalent. While it improves the “apparent” appearance it only “masks” the issues and it is not permanent. Silver is also very soft and misshapes, dings, scratches, dulls and scuffs way too easily. Silver is also notorious for oxidizing (tarnishing) very quickly, as well as not being able to withstand standard, jewelry shop ultrasonic cleaning without adverse affects on the metal surface (sonic wave pitting).

If there are gemstones present it exacerbates the inherent silver deficiencies with the addition of oxidization under the stones that cannot be removed without removing and resetting the stones and since we set our stones using hard hand drilling and setting techniques rather than pre worked mass production techniques as it is a far superior process it amplifies the work involved to correct the issues.

Our Alloy: We have field tested our Palladium alloyed sterling silver it is much harder than traditional and non tarn sterling silver and much more oxidization resistant than “Non-Tarn” sterling . While this alloy is more costly than the traditional, non-tarn and deox sterling silver alloys that consumers are used to seeing it has met our standards for quality, wear and durability.

Pros: Very cost effective due to the solid construction of our jewelry and today’s very high Gold & Platinum costs and an excellent option for those on a tighter budget. Very linear in cost to our pieces produced in our custom alloy surgical implant grade stainless but unlike our surgical implant alloy this custom alloy sterling silver can be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to silver) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: Because this is new we are still in the field testing phase (so far we have been using it for a year). We know that it is far far superior to every other silver alloy to date. Due to the inherent issues of sterling silver we will need at least five years of wear (live field testing) to truly and intellectually address any possible “Cons” based on true field testing rather that speculation or “testing in a vacuum”.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None that we are aware of at this time

3) Our Silver / 25% Palladium Alloy

Our newest noble metal alloy alleviating the known problems of sterling silver while at the same time lessening the cost burden associated with the other noble metals by running approximately half the cost of 14kt gold while still providing a beautiful white, luxury noble metal.

Our Alloy: We have just started field testing our Silver / 25% Palladium alloy it is a much finer alloy and harder than traditional and non tarn sterling silver and much more oxidization resistant than “Non-Tarn” sterling . While this alloy is more costly than our palladium alloyed sterling silver as well as the traditional, non-tarn and deox sterling silver alloys that consumers are used to seeing it has met our standards for quality, wear and durability.

Pros: Very cost effective due to the solid construction of our jewelry and today’s very high Gold & Platinum costs and an excellent option for those on a tighter budget. Falling between our custom alloy surgical implant grade stainless and 14kt. gold alloys but still being able to be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to silver) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: Because this is new we have just started the field testing phase, to truly and intellectually address any possible “Cons”, we will need some time based on true field testing rather that speculation or “testing in a vacuum”.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None that we are aware of.

4) Our Custom Alloys 14kt. & 18kt. Gray Gold (58.5% Purity & 75.0% Purity)

You will note that we use “Gray” and not “White” Gold.
White gold contains nickel which is what people who are allergic to metals have a problem with and then it is plated with Rhodium to hide the yellowing. Our gray gold does not contain nickel and is the alloy that is accepted in France & Germany and to us the only acceptable alloy along with the fact that we do not plate our jewelry and this alloy does not need to be plated. White gold that is used in the US, China and Hong Kong is often “illegal” in many European countries.

“The White Gold Plating Problem”: Because white gold is plated often referred to by the ignorant of the jewelry industry as “Dipping” there is a whole issue that you must be made aware of. Plating is a temporary microscopic layer that wears off the item exposing the true color of the metal. To properly re-plate the metal the item must be fully “Stripped” down removing all previous plating because plating over plating turns the jewelry a dingy shade of darkened gray. It is impossible to remove the plating from areas such as channels and stone seating areas, and because these areas do not receive any wear they turn dark and dingy with the reapplied layers of plating resulting in a negative visual impact on the gemstones set within those areas.

Pros: It’s Gold, and will wear very well. We have been using our gray gold alloy for well over 10 years and have not had any issues with it. It can be can be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to Gold or Platinum Family Metals) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: Due to the solidity of our work and gold costs at all time highs it is more costly to produce our pieces in gold opposed to our custom alloy surgical, custom alloy sterling silver or our palladium. It is not as “White” as the above mentioned alloys.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None

5) Our Custom Alloys 14kt. & 18kt. Gold (58.5% Purity & 75.0% Purity)

We use beautiful custom alloys of Deep Rich Yellow, Rose and Green Gold. This is the only option for metal colors outside of the “White / Gray” family.

Pros: It’s Gold, and will wear very well. We have been using our gold alloys for years and have not had any issues with it. It can be can be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to Gold, Copper, Silver or Platinum Family Metals) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: Due to the solidity of our work and gold costs at all time highs it is more costly to produce our pieces in gold opposed to some of our other custom alloys.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None

6) Our Custom Alloy Palladium (95.0% Purity)

Palladium is part of the same metal group as platinum but is harder and takes a better polish. Less than 5% of Jewelers worldwide have the ability to work in this metal due to the high temp nature as well as its quirky nature. Here at Atelier Gothique it is our absolute number 1 choice for “White / Gray” metal, we love it and have amazing success with it and it is one of our preferred bridal metals.

Pros: It is much “whiter” than gray gold and platinum as well as being a “Harder” metal which results in a finer surface polish. It is much more pure of an alloy than gold used in jewelry today, it has a lower specific gravity than gold or platinum which means it uses less metal than the same piece in gold or platinum. Based on the solidity of our jewelry average costs for our pieces in Palladium end up to be approximately 20% less than 14kt Gray Gold, 30% less than 18kt Gray Gold, and 50% less than Platinum.
It can be can be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to Platinum Family Metals) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: In general it is a quirky difficult metal to work in but again here at Atelier Gothique we have zero issues with it and it is our number one choice for “White / Gray” metal.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None

7) Our Custom Alloy Platinum (95.0% Purity)

Platinum is considered to be the “Richest” of the noble metals. But Platinum is traditionally very soft and “Buttery” making it difficult to maintain a high polish, allowing stones to become easily loosened.
Our custom alloy is more than double the hardness of traditional Platinum alleviating these issues.

Pros: It’s Platinum, and will wear very well. We have been using our Platinum alloy for a few years and have not had any issues with it. It can be can be sized up or down and is safe for those with acute metal allergies (unless they are allergic to Platinum Family Metals) to wear without allergic reaction.

Cons: Due to the solidity of our work and Platinum costs at all time highs it is more costly to produce our pieces in Platinum than any of our other custom alloys.

Stone Setting Restrictions: None

Surface Treatments

Our jewelry is available in any finish or mixed finishes that you could desire from mirrored high polish to our hand applied silk satin finish utilizing old world European techniques and everything in between.

Surface coloration:

At Atelier Gothique we do not believe in using chemical blackening processes that are applied to the recessed areas of mass produced jewelry to hide the metal imperfections. Our jewelry is manufactured to such a high level that this is not an issue. When we add surface coloration it is a design attribute to the piece. We never use enamel paints or plastics nor do we use or condone the use chemical coloring processes as this is a short lasting inferior process.

Our inlay / coloration is available in all colors and is achieved in one of two ways.

    1. Custom Blended, Three Dimensionally Bonded, Reinforced Hard Wearing Ceramic
    2. Fine French Enameling In All Techniques

Our commitment to our clientele:

Regardless of which metal you choose Atelier Gothique Jewelry will always be made to the same quality level commitment and standards each and every time, each and every piece, no exceptions. Regardless of your metal choice we always use our standard gemstone and diamond quality assuring your piece is done to our high standards and manufactured one piece at a time and made to wear and enjoy.